I wond’r why nobody’s parked here? Surviving a ‘Widowmaker’, while completing our 2 month loop back to Sydney from Adelaide

Having spent the last week cutting through Australia’s dusty ‘Red Centre’, you’d think we’d have been glad to reach the bright lights of Adelaide – but alas no. Being met with the usual sea of break lights that all too often blights a city, meant we soon wished to be back in the wilderness of the Outback… Fortunately, after checking into a pleasant campsite just a short walk from downtown, past the (eerie looking at night) Botanical gardens, our longing to be out in the wild soon took a backseat while we stretched our legs looking for a bite to eat. It seemed our luck was in; as we managed to source happy hour espresso martinis followed by flavoursome Bao! 

Controversial pints while exploring Adelaide

Following a run in with a barista after requesting to close the door – apparently the cafe needs to be kept below 5 degrees to keep the coffee beans fresh – we were soon buzzing for adventure thanks to some Aussie trademark, velvety smooth flat white coffees. Our journey into the CBD took us along the gorgeous green banks of Karrawirra Parri river, watched on by graceful black swans past the Adelaide Oval; a large imposing stadium, famous for hosting Aussie rules football and cricket matches.  

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First stop was to be the crafty complex of the Jam Factory – an inspirational makers workshop just across the street from Adelaide’s Convention Centre. Not only were we able to enjoy its gallery and shop, but we’d arrived just in time to be given a personal tour of the many studios; featuring a myriad of artists busy working away on their cosmos of creations including ceramics, woodwork, metalwork and glass. 

After taking in more galleries, we found ourselves at Adelaide’s famous ‘Central Market’ for lunch, which is apparently in the top 3 markets of the world – oh my days, we were in food heaven! Before a much needed disco nap, we stopped in past the Migration Museum for a sobering lesson on Australia’s colonial past, learning about the awful ‘White Australian Policy’ that sought to exclude people of non European origin (chiefly Asians), from immigrating to Australia.

That evening we tucked into some meaty goodness, in the form of $10 burgers at a local pub, washed down by so called ‘pints’ of beer, or so we thought… Despite the barman assuring me the suspiciously small glasses of beer were pints, a quick Google confirmed that shockingly Adelaide ‘pints’ are just 425 ml – equivalent to schooners in other parts of Australia – rather than 570 ml you normally receive back in Blighty. Despite the outrageously small beers and only having one full day here, we were glad we’d put in longer drives a few days earlier to make it possible – Adelaide is a gorgeous city that often gets overlooked by its bigger brothers: Melbourne and Sydney. 

Sipping ancient tawny (AKA port) in the Barossa 

Our next days drive was supposed to take us all the way to the legendary outback town of Broken Hill, but our plans soon changed while taking a detour via the world famous wine region of the Barossa Valley. Originally we’d solely planned to take a quick look at Jam Factory’s sister site, but soon got distracted by the neighbouring Seppeltsfield vineyard 🙂

There we checked ourselves onto the ‘Heritage tour’; one of many guided walks available. Fascinatingly we learnt of the original Polish owners plans to grow tobacco, but then jumping on the wine bandwagon back in the mid 1800s. Seppeltsfield is mostly known for their ancient tawny (aka port), including rather expensive bottles aged over 100 years – amazingly in fact, they have barrels from every year dating back to 1878 available to taste! Fortunately, not wanting to part with $150 to taste century old port, our tour gave us the opportunity to try some 27 year old, rich and delicious nectar, almost as old as Joella! Not surprisingly, we couldn’t resist grabbing a bottle of their Para Grand Tawny, before finishing our days drive in Yunta.

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One last Outback adventure in Broken Hill and Silverton

An early start the next day took us to the large outback town of Broken Hill by lunchtime; home to where the worlds largest mining company: BHP (Broken Hill Proprietary) was founded. After unsophisticatedly making Vegemite sandwiches in the back of our car while parked up outside the Tourist information, we grabbed ourselves some maps and gave our legs a stretch on a self guided tour of the relatively old (by Australian standards) town and its galleries.

Next stop was Silverton, which felt far more authentically outback and rural.  Pleasantly Silverton – once an old silver mining town – reminded us a little of Lightning Ridge; full of quirky artist folk and oddities. We didn’t have the urge to visit the Mad Max 2 museum (as this is where much of it was filmed), but did have a nosey around the many ruined houses and in some of the artist homes that had been set up as galleries.

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Following our lengthy walking sessions we needed to regain our sugar levels, so stopped by ‘Bells Milk Bar’, after having listened to an interview with owner on rural Queensland radio a few weeks back. There we gorged ourselves on enormous, lusciously thick vanilla malt milkshakes, while feeling like we’d time travelled back to the 1950’s, thanks to the suitably retro surroundings.

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Our day came to a spell-binding close atop of the nearby Desert Wilderness Sculpture Park; where the golden orange rays of the setting sun brilliantly lit up the intricately carved limestone structures. It was sad to think we were now done with the magic of the outback – Australia’s spiritual home; but did take some heart in the experiences and memories we’d had and will treasure forever. Then it was time for pot noodles and bed, back at St Pat’s Racecourse – another unexpectedly random camping spot just outside of Broken Hill, where we were guided to our ‘pitch’ in amongst the grandstands by a grumpy bloke on a quad bike.

Escaping a ‘Widow Maker’ en route back to Sydney

The next days drive needed to be a marathon 10 hour effort, in order to be back in Sydney the following day to house sit for my Uncle and Auntie. Therefore the only stop we had time for, was a toilet break at a lay-by, that had entertainingly been overtaken by a herd of intimidating goats…

As hoped, we successfully made it all the way to Dubbo that evening; an agricultural NSW town that unbeknown to us, would host a visit by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle a few months later, due to the severe droughts that plagued the area. Pleasantly we arrived in time to enjoy a few schooners of flavoursome, ice cold Pacific Ales at the Old Bank pub, to celebrate International Beer Day, before picking up some $5 pizzas at Dominos.

That evening we made a choice that could have cost us our life; to spend the night at a popular lay-by just outside of Dubbo. Despite arriving late, conveniently there was a perfectly sized space for us to park up, a short walk from the toilets. Annoyingly, after having setup our beds in the back, I remembered a comment I’d read on wiki camps earlier about dangerous gum trees, nicknamed ‘Widowmakers’. This label had come about due to their habit of dropping huge limbs without warning, at times of stress e.g. droughts, causing death to anyone unwittingly situated below. It was now clear why nobody else had parked where we had! Reluctantly, we shifted our gear off the drivers seat, so I could re-park safely away from the shadows of the murderous wood that hung above us.

Morning broke, and we were glad the same couldn’t be said for the tree boughs! Glad to have survived the night plagued by nightmares of splintering shrubbery, we quickly got back on the road. Following a brief stop past Mount Victoria and Katoomba for lunch, high up in the picturesque Blue Mountains, our 2 month Outback adventure came to a close back in Sydney where it had begun, some 12,000 km earlier. It was nice to be ‘home’, welcomed by beautiful Lillie the American Staffy, and cheeky cats: Bailey and Saskia, who were all happy to see us again 🙂

I wond’r if we’ll ever wake from this trance? Hypnotised by the awesomeness of Uluru, while journeying from Darwin to Adelaide

After bidding farewell to Jess and Ben – the next time we’d see them would be in 3 months time for their wedding – we chucked our remaining XXXX beers in the back, and hit the road once again for the inhospitable Outback. For the next day we’d be retracing the drive we’d made up to Darwin the previous week, along the beginning (or end, depending on which way round you’re doing it) of a route excitingly named the ‘Explorer’s Way’; named after John McDouall Stuart, the first explorer to successfully cross Australia from south to north and return.

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As had now become the norm, our first stop was dictated by our stomachs and turned out to be Pine Creek, where we’d stayed on the way up. After a quick tuna sandwich, we made a gold coin donation at the quaint steam train museum, and left feeling like experts in the field of restoring old locomotives! While driving through Katherine our conversation got the better of us, and we forgot to fill up (again); finding ourselves with a range of just 11km left, before pulling into the forecourt of the next petrol station – yikes!

Fortunately this risky strategy of minimising our weight by avoiding carrying unnecessary petrol, meant we’d made good time thus far, so could afford a quick detour past a natural spa…

Swimming with snakes in Bitter Springs

Having decided to skip the more popular Mataranka, we drove on to the lesser known Bitter Springs that was pleasantly far less busy. Instead of a large pool, Bitter Springs is probably best described as a natural lazy river, which takes you on a relaxing journey past luscious tropical undergrowth, under scenic palm trees.

When we’d well and truly been lulled into a false sense of tranquility while drifting down, a local pointed out something up ahead that we initially took no notice of. It wasn’t until we were mere inches away that we realised, rather than a pretty parrot or rare plant, the something turned out to be a large snake – woah! Fortunately it casually zig zagged past, through the water, taking no notice (we hope) of us… From that point on we understandably paid a little more attention to our surroundings!

That evening we made it as far as Daly Waters, where we avoided the touristy pub and campground, instead opting for quieter road house just down the road. After saying a quick hello to our buffalo neighbours, then cooking up a delicious satay chicken and rice dish, we hit the hay.

Playing with the Devil’s Marbles

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Our next mornings drive was a little stop and start, while we frequently pulled over to get rid of the many mosquitos that had taken refuge in our car :-/ Once the remaining hangers on had reluctantly buzzed off, it was time for a pitstop past the ‘Pebbles’ – an outcrop of medium sized granite boulders, peculiarly dotted across the stark red plains of the Outback. Although these were fairly impressive, they were to be a mere warm up for what we’d see later on…

The next oddity to break up our day was in the form of an old overland telegraph station. These repeater stations setup in the late 1800s, from Adelaide to Darwin, connected South Australia to the outside world, via telegraph lines stretching across to Singapore and beyond. It was also fascinating learning how important these stations were to weary travellers needing a bed for the night, and how appreciative lonely station workers were to receive these visitors to keep them company.

After reading most of the information signs dotted about, we reluctantly carried on driving South, now on unchartered roads as we passed the T-Junction we’d travelled on from Cairns. For lunch we ducked in past one of the larger Outback towns of Tennant Creek, just missing the PM – Michael Turnbull, who’d been in town due to troubles in the local community. After grabbing food at the supermarket, then struggling to find the arts centre, we rejoined the highway in a bid to reach our final destination before dusk.

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Just before the sun began it’s final journey south of the horizon, we pulled into the busiest campsite we’d come across so far. After managing to squeeze in alongside a camper van and large ute, we raced to have a look at the awesome spectacle that surrounded us: The Devils Marbles. These huge, almost alien like boulders were strewn all around us, some stacked upon one another, others scattered on their lonesome far and wide. While strolling amongst them as the sun set, their brilliant golden orange colours continued to become even more striking.

After a broken nights sleep serenaded by the howls of our neighbours being violently sick – we can only assume food poisoning got the better of them – we hit the road. First to Wycliffe Well, Australia’s UFO capital apparently, for some cheesy photos with aliens; then to Alice Springs, in time for a cheeky lunch at Hungry Jack’s.

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Discovering the tenacity of desert wildlife, while in Alice Springs

Having heard that nights in Alice can get mightily cold, we treated ourselves to a stay at the cutesy Alice’s Secret Travellers Inn. Although our private room wasn’t much more than a portacabin, partitioned off using thin plywood, the place itself was extremely homely and the garden full of hammocks, deck chairs and hypnotic lights truly did feel like an oasis 🙂 While mooching about town we experienced the sad racial plight that’s rife here, with many aboriginal homeless begging on the street, often clearly intoxicated or completely passed out.

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With David Attenborough having proclaimed that there’s no no museum or wildlife park in the world that could match Alice Spring’s Desert Park, paying it a visit was really a no brainer. Given that the place is huge, and entry is on the more expensive side, we set out at the break of dawn, arriving soon after opening. Even before entering the park itself, we were impressed at how well kept everything was, as we walked past a team of uniformed park rangers (happily including multiple aboriginals) carefully seeing to the entrance display of native foliage.

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Our visit began as any trip to the zoo or wildlife park does; attempting to strategically plan a route, while trying to make sense of brochures, maps that aren’t to scale and timings for various talks. Once we’d decided our plan of attack, we set off to explore just what the deserts of Australia have to offer. It was fascinating to discover just how much animal and plant life there is in what seems to be an unliveable environment featuring mostly sand, scorching daytime temperatures, and freezing nighttimes that often drop to below freezing. Take for example the awesome Thorny Devil Lizard; that walks cautiously with a stutter, has a false head on its tail and is able to drink if any part of its body touches water – thanks to a clever capillary system under its scaly skin.

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Once we’d had enough of the various peculiar, and often very lethal reptiles in the impressive nocturnal house, we took the opportunity to try our hand at some aboriginal activities – we couldn’t spend over a year in Aus and not have a go at throwing a boomerang! Frustratingly mine never came back, leaving me to embarrassingly go and collect it from the shrubbery, in front of smug 10 year olds… Although Joella didn’t have any more luck when it came to her weaving (it didn’t seem as tight as it should be) but hey, we had fun! En route back to Alice, we took in the awesome Simpson Gap set within the Western Macdonald ranges, before heading home for dinner and another excellent episode of Alienist on the iPad.

Utterly in awe of Uluru

Based on how incredible our trip South from Darwin had been so far, it was hard to imagine that the highlight was yet to come – Uluru (previously known as Ayers Rock). Although there’s a campsite at Uluru, it’s extortionately expensive, and apparently not so nice, so we headed for the nearby (by Outback standards – an hour and a half drive away) Curtain Springs: a cattle station with over 1,000,000 acres, offering free camping. After attempting to brave sitting outside on camp chairs in the middle of what felt like a dust storm, we came to our senses and grabbed a beer at the bar. Before bedding down for the night we did our bit for the local community, and prevented a runaway emu by closing its gate that had blown open.

Wanting to see the sunrise at Uluru, we got up well before dawn in the freezing dark of the outback – no time for showers; with a quick sip of water and a cereal bar, we hit the road, taking great care of straying kangaroos. Despite our early start, we found ourselves locked in battle with the impending sunrise, especially so, after having to spend time fuelling up at the astronomically expensive filling station in Yuluru village.

Arriving in early dawn had the added benefit of semi-cloaking Uluru from our view, to avoid spoiling the surprise, and what a surprise it was! Fortunately we’d grabbed our park tickets online the night before, so avoided delays at the gate, leaving us to speed through to a suitable viewing point to take in the unveiling of Uluru in the heavenly golden sunrise. Although there are dedicated viewing platforms, we were more than happy standing on our car, parked up on the side of road looking in awe at this enormously large body of rock rise up from the flat plains of the outback. Really no words or pictures can do it justice, you just have to see it for yourself, it’s honestly spellbinding.

Brilliantly, the park entrance tickets included a walking tour around Uluru, that excellently added another depth of information to the incredible sight that lay before us. The impressively knowledgeable and engaging tour guide did a fantastic job of bringing Uluru and the Aboriginal culture to life with various facts about how they lived:

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  • There are two species of shrimp that live within the craters on top of Uluru
  • Aboriginals tend to only kill the last Emu in a group, to prevent others from seeing and avoiding the area again (Emus are renowned to have good memories)
  • Honeypot ants store sacks of sweet nectar, that Indigenous Australians dig up and eat as a treat

After the tour, we took the opportunity to stretch our legs further, and circumnavigated Uluru. Throughout the 2 hour walk we were constantly rewarded with its ever changing rock formations, and peacefulness at times when no-one was around. Reluctantly we left before it started to get dark, and struggled to take our eyes from the site in the rearview mirror while driving away… After a surreal shower back at Curtain Springs, serenaded by the surrounding cattle lowing, we had an early night so as to get up once again before dawn; Nathan, a fellow Aussie traveller recommended we got up at 4.30am to check out the blood red moon eclipse, which proved to be quite a sight, although my camera wasn’t really up to the challenge of capturing it :-/

Sleeping underground in the odd town of Coober Pedy

Another day, and another journey once again to another Australian oddity – We were headed to the famous mining town of Coober Pedy, known mainly for the fact that the majority of its population live underground due to the harsh Outback conditions above. This means a) there are a lot of unusual things to visit underground, including the likes of churches and museums; and b) many ‘characters’ have been attracted to Coober Pedy and made their mark on it.

After a civilised stay in the local Big 4 campground on our first night, we spent the next day visiting the peculiar sites, including the likes of:

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  • A life size spaceship, used in the Riddick Film, Pitch Black, that filmed partly in Coober Pedy
  • Another grass free golf course (similar to the one we found in Lightning Ridge), in which players carry around pieces of astro turf to hit the ball from
  • The lookout from ‘The big Wynch’, another of Australia’s famous ‘Big things’, that included a lot of eerie signage

After spending the evening sipping a tasty Aussie Shiraz while watching the sun go down, we couldn’t resist checking into an underground motel, to experience sleeping in a sophisticated cave.

Next stop, Adelaide – civilisation once again!

I wond’r if the boguns are going to bottle us? A battle of words with drunk locals and enjoying beautiful Aboriginal art in Darwin

Unexpectedly our first stop once arriving in Darwin wasn’t destined to be my Cousin Jess and her fiancé Ben’s place; instead it turned out to be O’brien’s Autoglass :-/ While taking a detour past Daly River to have a look round an Aboriginal art centre on friendly advice from wise Grey Nomads (it was very inspiring and we even got a peek at the workshops, although the town felt a little rough), a stone kicked up from a passing caravan smashed violently upon our windscreen. Fortunately the resulting crack didn’t affect my driving visibility too much, although was definitely going to need some attention before departing from Darwin.

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Once we’d booked our windscreen replacement for later in the week (fortunately our insurance was going to pick up the majority of the bill, bar the excess), we headed to Jess and Ben’s place, which turned out to be a large, modern townhouse positioned picturesquely overlooking a marina 🙂 That evening Jess and Ben treated us to a hearty feed of chicken schnitzels, washed down with icy cold golden lagers and conversation about cyclones at the local (water) Ski Club, while the sun scorched the dusky skies as it sank slowly below the warm waters of the Timor Sea.

Escaping the humidity while sightseeing on two wheels

Darwin is (in)famously known for extremely humid conditions, even during its ‘winter’ months, so I was understandably hesitant to trust Joella’s suggestion of saying goodbye to the comfort of our car’s air-con and instead venture out for the day on bicycles. Almost immediately however, I was pleasantly surprised by how well the passing air cooled us, as we speedily navigated Darwin’s superb network of cycle lanes on two wheels.

Our first stop once in town was a much deserved coffee and brunch at Kopi Stop, where we treated ourselves to some lovely veggie jaffles (Aussie for toasty). After refuelling, we were ready to explore Darwin further, and headed to the beautiful recreation area of East Point just past Fannie Bay (snigger snigger..).

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We hadn’t done much research about the Northern Territory’s capital before arriving, and to be honest we weren’t sure what to expect, but once we’d spent time trundling around Darwin’s (surprisingly lush green) coast, beaches and harbours, we quickly grew fond of Australia’s largest ‘Top End’ city. And that was before visiting the magnificent Museum and Art Gallery of Northern Territory… Conveniently entry was free, and the standard of the exhibitions was superb. We were especially impressed by the Natural World section, full of Australia’s many unique, weird and wonderful animals from past and present including various dinosaurs, sawfish and giant clams.

After being in awe of Aussie’s animals, things quickly turned to a more sombre mood while learning about the devastation caused by Cyclone Tracy back in 1974. The scale of the disaster was shockingly brought to life through full size replica houses to demonstrate the damage caused, as well as a darkened room where a recording of the storm can be heard. It was all very sad, and we struggled to understand recent decisions to relax building regulation that were put in place as a result; no longer needing safe rooms and a decrease in wind speed buildings are required to withstand.

Struggling with difficult dining decisions at the Mindil Beach Sunset Market

Despite Jess mentioning the markets can get busy, we weren’t expecting large crowds in comparison to those we’ve grown accustomed to back in London. However, after arriving then spending quarter of an hour to find a parking space, we soon realised Jess wasn’t kidding! After parking on an unlikely spot along a grass embankment lined with infinite palm trees, we followed the smells, lights and noise towards the market strip that lay parallel with the busy beach peppered with people gobbling food.

There we were greeted by far more stalls than we’d seen earlier in the afternoon when cycling past, all selling tantalisingly tasty looking foods from all over the world, as well as a multitude of other crafty goodies. An up-tempo didgeridoo band provided a fitting soundtrack as we snaked up and down, struggling to decide what we should treat ourselves to. Finally we settled upon a mixture of flavoursome Turkish wraps, stuffed Indian roti’s, chicken laksa soup and superb mini Dutch pancakes – yum!

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Once full, we were able to focus more on our atmospheric surroundings, as we explored the eclectic mix of stalls offering the likes of ‘roadkill’ themed burgers, whipping tutorials and the opportunity to have your name written on a grain of rice. After enjoying another lovely, but busy sunset from the beach, we made our way back home for beers and banter.

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Uncovering the fascinating world of Aboriginal Art

The next day started off productively; sitting in a coffee shop that was suitably blaring the Wombats back catalogue, as we waited for our windscreen to be fixed. Once all done, we headed down-town to go shopping in the many aboriginal art shops and galleries that line Darwin’s streets and alleyways. Fortunately the town centre is fairly compact, allowing us to park up and leave the car, before immersing ourselves in the magical world of aboriginal art

What we expected to be a brief two hour wander, turned into a full-day mission, as we delved deeper and deeper into the many stacks of rainbow coloured paintings. Not only was it a feast for the eyes, but we found it truly fascinating too; learning about the methods used to create the intrinsic patterns as well as the meanings behind the various shapes and symbols.

We were tempted by many of the pieces, however one by Eddie Blitner stood out for us more than others. It features a celebratory brolga bird – which represents going for your dream and expressing yourself creatively on a professional level in Aboriginal culture – formed from what seems like an infinite number of fine white lines across a scorched yellow background. Unfortunately our time with it was short lived, as it needed to be wrapped-up ready for posting – it was far too big and expensive to be chucked in the back of our car! Not only had the painting burned a hole in our pocket, but so did the parking ticket, which had shot up from free for the first 2 hours, to over $50 for the next 3 :-/

Finding ourselves in hot water (literally) with some intoxicated boguns

Having originally planned to squeeze in a day trip to the famous Litchfield National Park, we soon came to our senses, deciding against spending X hours driving there and back (you’re better to spend a night there). Instead, Jess suggested we check out the much closer Berry Springs – a natural hot springs in amongst the rainforest – which understandably didn’t need much selling to us!

After a swift 45 mins drive, we arrived first unexpectedly at an enormous car park, rammed full of fellow hot spring seekers. It wasn’t looking likely to be as peaceful and tranquil as we’d hoped, but happily the size and number of pools meant it wasn’t to be too crowded. Once we’d grabbed our ‘noodles’ (highly recommended long foam tubes to keep you afloat) and taken some amusing photos next to the crocodile warning signs, we excitedly made our way into the surreal balmy waters surrounded by tropical foliage.

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Unexpectedly, our relaxation was soon disturbed by a couple of Boguns (Aussie Chavs / Neds) that had got people’s backs up, by uncaringly taking glass bottled beers into the water. Jess gave them evils, which led to us receiving a tirade of abuse. Fortunately their behaviour was more entertaining than threatening, and we quickly learned to ignore their pathetic grumblings about ‘arrogant tourists’, which made no sense seeing Jess is a local!

For our final evening we all tucked into some pricy, but highly scenic fish and chips at La Beach next to Cullen Bay. There we huddled together on the grass eating out of paper wrappers, in an attempt to prevent the circling seagulls from thieving our golden battered prizes. As we successfully finished the last of our chips without any losses, we were treated to one more beautiful sunset over the water – a highly satisfying ending to our stay in Darwin 🙂